Green or common iguana (Iguana iguana), is one of the largest lizards in America, measuring (nose to the tip of the tail) between 1.2 to 1.7 m/ 3.9 to 5.6 ft and weighing up to 4 kg / 8.8 lb. They can make great pets, but are not recommended for beginners, not only because of the somewhat advanced habitat you will have to provide them, but also because as they become sexually mature some individuals may become more aggressive.
Let’s dive in
Keeping iguana as a pet
Tank size for iguanas
Your iguana, depending on its size, will need a large terrarium, 2-3 times the length of its body, as wide as it is long and at least 180 cm/74” high. Iguanas are arboreal and love to climb, so height is important to give them this opportunity.
For example, a young iguana (about 30 cm/11”), can very happily live in a 120x 90x180cm or 47.24”x35.43”x74.86” terrarium. Keep in mind that as your pet iguana grows, so will its required habitat.
You could keep your iguana in a smaller tank, but you have to make sure you let it out regularly so that the animal can move around and thus develop fully.
If you think this is starting to look like a small room, you are not wrong.
An enclosure for a fully grown iguana will require a lot of space. Inexperienced owners often forget that and become overwhelmed once their pet reaches its full size. Some people resort to giving up their pets to the zoo or worse… releasing it into the wild. This has led to iguanas turning into an invasive species in some parts of America, such as Florida.
Always think ahead before assuming responsibility for such a large animal.
How big of an enclosure does a full-grown iguana need?
An adult iguana tank should be at least 360x90x250cm or 12ft long by 8 ft high. Owners usually end up creating a custom tank, so it matches the room’s dimensions and shape. However, there are some ready-made iguana tanks on the market you can choose from.
Humidity and water in the tank
Iguanas are native to the rainforests of South America. The humidity level should be in the 80% range, so a hygrometer is strongly recommended. To achieve high humidity in the tank, you can mist it with water about 2 times a day, or have some sort of running water feature installed – such as a fountain.
Unless you live in a naturally humid and warm climate, avoid tanks with mesh walls, as you will have a problem with moisture retention.
Iguanas get most of the water they need through their food, so it’s a good idea to give them some juicy food. We will talk about food in further down in this post.
Make sure you also provide them with a small “pool” from them to cool down in.
Temperature and lighting
As with most reptiles, one side of the tank should be cooler, the other warmer. Daytime temperatures should be between 26.6 C / 79.88 F and 31.1 C / 87.98F, with a basking spot of 34.9 C / 95F. The evening temperatures should drop to between 23.8 C / 74.84F and 26.6 C / 79.88F.
It’s a good idea to have several wall-stick thermometers placed around the terrarium to monitor the temperatures in the various parts.
To achieve the desired temperature, you can use ceramic lamps or heat mats. Some additional lighting, such as a UVB lamp is also required but should be on set on a timer. This is because the iguana is a diurnal animal, meaning that in the wild would wake up at sunrise and go to sleep at sunset. Therefore, the lighting in the tank should resemble the natural sun cycle. If the sun rises at 6:30, it’s a good idea to turn the terrarium lights on at that time. The same goes for when the sun sets. Don’t forget to adjust your timer to the season.
The UVB rays are essential to iguanas as they help the animal produce vitamin D2 in its skin, which is then converted to D3. Vitamin D3 helps the body produce calcium. Without this type of light (as well as proper temperatures and nutrition) your pet iguana can develop calcium deficiency, which leads to bone disease, tremors, stroke, and death.
Baskin spot and interior
Once you have settled on the proper size and managed to heat and light the tank, all that is left is to “furnish” it properly.
The most important elements to pay attention to are the climbing areas. These can be achieved by placing sturdy branches for climbing- from a deciduous tree or cork that are approximately the thickness of your animal’s body and securing them firmly to the terrarium walls.
You could also create different climbing levels on the walls and place bridges in between for the animal to cross. Rope netting is also a good option as long as it is strong enough and does not fray. Wide ramps on several levels in the terrarium are advisable so that the iguana can choose where to bask in the sun and where to rest.
Live plants can be eaten or crushed very quickly, so put in artificial ones.
Substrate
A good substrate is one that the iguana cannot ingest and is easy to clean – here are some options:
- Artificial grass – easy to clean, gentle on the feet and looks good in almost any tank;
- Coco Husk – great substrates for maintaining humidity levels;
- Recycled Paper – Recycled paper can be a good choice for most adult iguanas kept indoors;
What can you feed a pet iguana?
When it comes to feeding your pet iguana, remember the 50-40-10 rule: 50% fresh greens, 40% vegetables, and 10% fruit. We’ve compiled a table with some suitable food that is guaranteed to keep your pet iguana well-fed.
| Fresh greens 🥬 | Vegetables🥕 | Fruit🍓 |
|---|---|---|
| Kale | Sweet potato | Raspberries |
| Collard greens | Parsnips | Watermelon |
| Beet greens | Green beans | Pumpkin |
| Turnip greens | Carrots | Apples |
| Bok choy | Cucumber | Pears |
| Parsley | Lettuce | Strawberries |
| Kohlrabi | Tomato | Papaya |
| Dandelion | Leek | Plums |
| Green peas | Grapes | |
Feeding your pet iguana – important to know
- Fresh vegetables, fruits, and other greens may be grated, minced, or cut into small pieces and then served to the animal.
- Citrus fruits should not be given to iguanas as they can’t break down the acid.
- To add protein to your iguana’s diet, also give Alfalfa Granules or another alfalfa product, it is also rich in calcium. You can grind it into a powder and sprinkle the iguana’s food with it, or leave the granules whole. It takes some time for the iguana to get used to alfalfa in its food, so start with a small amount and gradually increase the dose until it gets used to it. You can of course pot her up and give her fresh.
- Don’t forget to sprinkle your iguana’s food with some calcium powder.
- It is not advisable to buy vegetables, greens, or fruits in bulk and freeze them, as the vitamin content will be diminished.
FAQ: keeping iguanas as pets
Do iguanas make good pets?
Iguanas are not for beginners. They require a lot of space and care but if socialized form an early age an iguana can bond with its owner. For those willing to make the commitment, iguanas can make surprisingly good pets. Iguanas are generally shy creatures, but with regular handling and interaction, they can learn to trust and even enjoy human companionship. They are also intelligent animals, and many owners report that their iguanas seem to have personalities of their own. Of course, owning an iguana is not without its challenges. Iguanas are notoriously escape artists, and their sharp claws can make them dangerous to handle. But for dedicated reptile enthusiasts, an iguana can be a rewarding pet.
Do iguanas bite?
While iguanas are generally docile creatures, they can occasionally become aggressive, especially when they feel threatened. Iguanas have sharp teeth that can cause puncture wounds, and their powerful tail can also deliver a painful blow. If an iguana feels cornered, it may bite in self-defense. In addition, iguanas can sometimes be aggressive when they are feeding. If you approach an iguana while it is eating, it may mistaken your hand for food and try to take a bite. As a result, it is best to exercise caution around these reptiles. While bites from an iguana are not usually fatal, they can cause significant injury.
Can iguanas swim?
While it may come as a surprise to some, iguanas are actually excellent swimmers. Their long tails help them to move gracefully through the water, and they have been known to swim for long distances. While they typically prefer to stay on land, iguanas will often enter the water in search of food or to escape predators. So next time you see an iguana sunning itself on a rock, don’t be fooled – it’s just waiting for its next opportunity to dive in!
Which iguana makes the best pet?
Iguanas come in a variety of colors, and each has its own personality. However, not all iguanas are created equal when it comes to being pets. The three most popular types of iguanas are green iguanas, red iguanas, and blue iguanas. Of these, green iguanas are the most popular pet choice. They are relatively easy to care for and have docile dispositions. Red iguanas are also popular pets, but they can be more high-maintenance than green iguanas. They require a larger enclosure and need to be fed a diet of live insects. Blue iguanas are the least popular type of pet iguana. They are very rare and difficult to find. They also have a reputation for being aggressive, making them less ideal as pets. When choosing an iguana as a pet, it is important to select the right type for your individual needs and preferences.
Which iguana grows the biggest?
The longest of the iguanas is the red iguana. It grows up to 7 feet ( 2 meters) long from nose to tail. The smallest of the group is the spiny-tailed iguana, which only reaches about 2 feet (0.6 meters) in length. Red iguanas are also the heaviest iguanas, weighing up to 20 pounds (9 kilograms). In contrast, the lightest iguanas are the desert iguanas, which only weigh about 1 pound (0.4 kilograms). So if you’re looking for an iguana that can grow to be quite large, the green iguana is the one you want. Just be prepared to provide it with a lot of space – and food!
Can I keep an iguana in an apartment?
Iguanas are not ideal pets for apartment dwellers. Even if you have the space for a terrarium, iguanas need to be let out to stretch their legs and get some exercise. Iguanas are also very messy, and their droppings can quickly make your home smells unpleasant. If you’re set on getting an iguana, be prepared to spend a lot of time cleaning up after your pet.
Green iguana health problems
The good news is that because of the green iguana’s enormous popularity, vets have a fairly consistent standard of care, despite the fact that this lizard is prone to developing a number of illnesses.
Metabolic & Nutritional Disorders
A series of intricate bone disorders often observed in lizards are together known as metabolic bone disease (MBD). MBDs frequently result from inadequate dietary calcium intake or inadequate UV illumination. MBDs, however, can also be brought on by parathyroid tumors and renal illness.
Swollen and painful limbs, misshaped, rubbery-looking jaw bones that make it impossible for the animal to feed, and uncontrollable muscular twitching are all signs of MBD in green iguanas. Tetany, or the twitching of the muscles, is an indication that an animal is in danger of dying or that seizures are about to start.
MDB treatments include dietary changes and UV light exposure, as well as vitamin D supplements.
Abdominal gout
When a green iguana consumes too much protein or is unable to metabolize the protein it consumes, it develops a condition called visceral gout.
Older green iguanas given excessive amounts of meat or canned dog or cat food frequently die from visceral gout. Never give your iguanas cat or dog food.
When the iguana is dehydrated and unable to digest even normal quantities of protein and uric acid, secondary visceral gout develops. Green iguanas with visceral gout experience inflammation and pain around the damaged tissue regions. Your green iguana shouldn’t get visceral gout if you adhere to the recommended food guidelines.
